Busan Station to Huinnyeoul Culture Village via Jagalchi: Gamnaetgil Course 8

Misty view over downtown Busan from Yongdusan Park area

Some walks are about nature, and some are about a city showing off its layers — Course 8 is firmly the second kind. Starting right at Busan Station, this route packs in Chinatown, a historic mountaintop park, the country’s largest fish market, a working shipyard village, and a cliffside art town all in one go. … Read more

Choryang Ibagu-gil: Yeongga-dae to Busan Station on Gamnaetgil Course 7

Present-day restored Yeongga-dae pavilion with stone stairs, Busan

Course 7 picks up where Course 6 left off, at Yeongga-dae, and turns out to be one of the richest history walks on the entire Gamnaetgil trail — a compressed tour through Joseon-era diplomacy, colonial-era commerce, independence movement history, and modern Busan all inside about six kilometers. My friend Areum, unsurprisingly, was the one who … Read more

UN Peace Park to Munhyeon in the Rain: Gamnaetgil Course 6

Hikers in rain gear gathered at Neulbit Church before starting Gamnaetgil Course 6, Busan

We should have checked the forecast more carefully. Course 6 turned into our first proper rain walk together, and honestly, it ended up being one of the more memorable outings — there’s something about grey skies that suits a route built around a war memorial and an old quarantine village more than clear blue ones … Read more

Haeundae Beach to Millak Bridge: Gamnaetgil Course 4

Korea Tourism Awards 2022 sign for Haeundae Blueline Park and beach train, Busan

Course 4 is Gamnaetgil at its most “greatest hits” — Haeundae Beach, the APEC summit house, a yacht harbor, and one of Busan’s most photographed bridges, all inside a single ten-kilometer walk. My friend Doyoon, still deep in marathon training after our long double-course day back in January, wanted something flatter for a recovery walk, … Read more

Cheongsapo and Mipo from Seoam Village: Gamnaetgil Course 3

Overcast view of Cheongsapo Dalitdol stepping stones and lighthouse, Busan

By mid-April the cherry blossoms around Busan were mostly gone, petals collecting in the gutters instead of on the trees, but Course 3 turned out to be one of the prettiest coastal stretches we’d walked yet — a mix of small fishing harbors, dramatic breakwater lighthouses, and the long approach to Cheongsapo’s famous stepping-stone viewpoint. … Read more

A Winter Trip to Wondae-ri Birch Forest, Inje

Highway rest stop on the drive from Busan to Inje, Gangwon-do, Korea

Not every good walk in this series happens on the Gamnaetgil trail. When my walking club finished its yearly program, the traditional send-off is a graduation trip somewhere further afield, and this year the destination was Wondae-ri Birch Forest in Inje, Gangwon-do — famously called the “whispering birch forest” for the sound the wind makes … Read more