Old Dongnae History Walk: Gamnaetgil Course 7-3

Scale model of the historic Dongnae Eupseong fortress town at the Suan Station history museum, Busan

Most of the Gamnaetgil trail is about coastline and rivers, so Course 7-3 stands out — it’s the one section that trades sea views for history, looping through the old center of Dongnae, Busan’s historic seat of government long before the modern port city grew up around it. My friend Areum, who studied Korean history … Read more

Gadeokdo Island Loop on Gamnaetgil Course 5-3: Autumn and Winter

Chartered tour bus used to reach Gadeokdo Island for Gamnaetgil Course 5-3

Gadeokdo doesn’t feel like part of Busan when you’re standing on it. Technically it’s the city’s westernmost and southernmost point, but it’s an island connected by bridge, set between the container terminals of the new port and the open sea toward Geoje. Gamnaetgil Course 5-3 loops around its coastline, and everyone who’d done it warned … Read more

Nakdong Estuary to Sinho Port: Gamnaetgil Course 5-1

Nakdong River Estuary Barrage, starting point of Gamnaetgil Course 5-1 in Busan

My friend Minji had been asking me for weeks to try one of the Gamnaetgil (갈맷길) trails – the loop of coastal and riverside paths that circles Busan for roughly “700 li,” the old-style measurement that works out to around 280 kilometers in total. Neither of us had the stamina (or the time) to think … Read more